Saturday, August 22, 2009

A trip to South India

It is my second evening in the Austrian mountains and a new bottle of wine. Tonight it’s a Cuvee – a delicious and smooth blend of different grapes from the region. I don’t know much about wines...just that they have recently caught my fancy and I have decided to explore them during my week in Europe. It has been raining since afternoon and the alpine air is wonderfully invigorating.

And as I sit in the hotel lounge, I again reflect on the events of the past few weeks.

The high point for me this summer was undoubtedly my visit to Chennai and Madurai last month. A visit that gave me an opportunity to see the impact being made by a microfinance organisation that was deeply committed to serving the poor by providing rural women with the means to achieve economic independence. When I visited the villages where they operated, I saw first hand how they had provided people the skills and means to emerge from poverty and attain a sustainable livelihood.

This opportunity arose thanks to a dear friend with whom I have worked closely for several years. She has now moved beyond the security and comfort of a career in the corporate sector and embarked upon a new journey as a social entrepreneur. Recently, she was approached by an acquaintance, a private equity investor in the social sector, whose fund had invested in this company and where he was a board member. They were looking for an experienced HR professional to serve as a strategic advisor, poised as they are for significant growth in the near future and felt they needed to really get the people equation right. She suggested my name and a few phone calls later introductions were made, connections established, and off I was to see how I could be of assistance in their noble venture.

What I experienced over the course of the next two days left a lasting impression on me and I came away with deep appreciation both for the dedication of these people, as well for their creativity and innovation.

I was received in Chennai by their Chairperson, a woman of very impressive credentials, who took me to a charming old house which served as the company headquarters. The private equity investor also flew in and over the next few hours, we had a spirited and absorbing discussion as they brought me up to speed on the nature of their work. By the end of the day, and several copious notes later, I had received my initiation into the fascinating world of microfinance. As I would realize a day later, this was just my ‘theory’ lesson. The ‘practical’ was to take place the following day through a field visit to the villages.

The next morning we took a 7am flight to Madurai, a small town in the very south of India. I had visited Madurai twenty years ago with my parents while on a summer vacation trip across south India and remember seeing the grand Meenakshi temple, which has lent fame to this town as it attracts both pilgrims and tourists from far and wide. This time though, the day was spent touring villages and branch offices of the company in and around the town. I was accompanied by the Chairperson, who also played the role of translator for most of the day as conversations took place in the local lingo - Tamil. I met with Self Help Groups (SHG) – clusters of 15-20 women organized by the microfinance company for the purpose of providing loans – and saw how they were educated and empowered to take charge of their lives. For most of these women, the journey to self-reliance began with an enrolment into a SHG, an entity that would form the edifice for much of their future existence and the foundation for lasting relationships with others united by a common desire to achieve economic independence and well being for their families. Each SHG would undergo months of training in entrepreneurship and basic finance and accounts. When considered ready, they would receive their group loan…which they would utilize to start a business venture. Some would purchase cattle, others would start a tailoring business, or else make trinkets and toys for children. Each month, the loan installment would need to be repaid and the group would be collectively responsible for ensuring timely payouts. The organisation has a quarter of a million women customers across the state, and an astounding recovery rate which would be the envy of mainstream banks. Just goes to prove the transformational power of enlightened and determined women.

One of the truly remarkable aspects of this organisation was their conscious desire to employ people from the very strata they serviced. This serves a dual purpose…of building trusting relationships within their customer base by being deeply etched in their lives; and underscoring their commitment to improving the lives of people in the rural areas by providing gainful employment to deserving candidates. The results - strong trust based relationships, a stellar reputation and a lasting impact on society!

I came across some astounding tales of human accomplishment.

We were accompanied in our field visit by the regional manager, a middle aged lady who oversaw operations across several branches. She spoke to me of her humble beginnings, from the time she had been a beneficiary of microfinance from this company 15 years ago. Starting off from a meager background (her husband was a daily wage labourer with a low and inconsistent income stream), this lady not only found a means to livelihood for her family, she took greater initiative by first becoming an employee of the company and forming more SHG’s, and in parallel pursuing higher studies, eventually completing a Master’s degree in commerce. Her three sons were now based in countries in the Middle East – all gainfully employed, with the eldest enrolled into a Ph.D. programme! This woman has worked tirelessly and risen to the position of regional head with oversight of several of the company’s branch operations. Recently, she has bought a computer and an internet connection and is learning to operate it.

There were more such stories…

The other revelation was the creativity and innovation in the social sector. The network of SHG’s is an extremely effective distribution channel and can be used as a conduit for several other ‘products’ – basic mobile phones, insurance plans, education and healthcare being a few examples. As technological advancements take effect, some of these will have a significant effect on the fabric of rural society. Imagine the impact of people in remote villages with access to information on their fingertips, combined with the ability to transmit it real time anywhere across the world. I feel this can lay the ground for transformation at the grassroots level. Such technology gives power in the hands of people and can help expose corruption, lay bare inefficiencies, and fight injustice…instantly and without censorship from any governing body!

I witnessed one such innovation. We had reached one of their branch offices in a semi-urban area of Madurai. This was in the upper floor of a small house in a narrow street reachable only on foot. On the day I was there, there had been a load shedding – long hours of electricity shut down - in that part of town. As we looked across the office, I noticed a printer on a table…this was their ‘collections’ room where they kept records of loan disbursement and repayment. The standalone printer was unaccompanied by a computer, something one would naturally expect to see in an operation that dealt with finances. When I enquired about how they managed accounts, the answer left me stunned with amazement. The collections officer, a 30 year veteran of the company whipped out his mobile phone and activated an application. Upon punching in a password, the screen came alive with up-to-date information on every SHG supported by the branch and the current status of loan repayment of each individual member! This information was fed and refreshed at the company headquarters in Chennai and all that was needed was for him to jack up the phone to the printer, produce the latest records and issue receipts to the customers every month! In one fell sweep, this innovation had significantly reduced the need physical infrastructure, reliance on electricity, and also the risk of fraud by unscrupulous employees. Grassroots technology at its very best!

My trip was an eye opener. I came away energized and refreshed from my interactions with these wonderful people. I spent the next few days thinking about how this organisation could harness its human potential and further its impact on the society. My past experiences provided some answers, but more came from friends who have immersed themselves to such causes. Today I see capable and highly qualified people who have chosen to dedicate themselves to bringing about sustainable and equitable development, rather than pursue the path of purely personal gains.


The wheels...they are surely turning!

Friday, August 21, 2009

Thoughts from the Alps

It has been a long time since I was here...

A period of intense activity! Intense at work and intense in areas I have wished to pursue outside of my work. Yet, it has not been overwhelming or overly strenuous. I think somewhere my subconscious mind had willed me to act rather than contemplate...which probably explains this hiatus from the blog.

Now, as I find myself in the cradle of the Alps, sitting by the pond in the hotel I have checked into earlier in the day, with a glass of Blaufrankistch wine (I think I got that right!), the mind turns inwards and reflects upon the events of the past few weeks...

To start with, there was concerning news from home. My father, already affected after suffering two strokes in late 2007, had developed some further complications. Living away from one's parents is never easy and at times like this, one faces the eternal dilemma of rushing back home versus staying back. However, after a couple of weeks of diagnosis and treatment, it appeared that the new complication was in remission and I was a bit more at peace. I decided to move ahead with my short vacation which has brought us to Austria…a beautiful and charming country with a long and interesting history. I still plan to go early next month and spend a few days in Delhi from where I will continue to work whilst in parallel seeking further medical opinions.

The relationship with my father has been a strange one and has evolved over the years. During my growing years, I looked upon him as a strong willed man - honest, upright and always upfront. For a long time he remembered how I would refer to him as a 'no nonsense man'. Because of his nature, people would at times find him difficult to deal with…he had a sharp tongue and usually an opinion to the contrary! On the other hand, he was known for his generosity...ever willing and ready to help folks in need. In my earliest memories, I have known him to place the needs of others before his own. Whether it would mean taking someone’s child for a school or college admission, having people over at home from distant lands as they toured India, or taking relatives of an indisposed person to the hospital on his scooter everyday till the crisis was past, he was always at hand when the need arose. His tall and lanky figure was a dominating presence within our family and wider circle of friends. As I came into adolescence the clashes began…perhaps as I struggled to come into my own and he with letting go of his progeny. I rebelled and did several things that did not please him. As the years progressed, the relationship strained further…leading to a flashpoint as I walked out of my house after having made the decision to marry. It was a period of immense emotional turmoil within our small family, which eventually eased a couple of days before the wedding as he was persuaded by friends and family to attend the ceremony and give his blessings. Still things did not completely subside and thereafter began a phase of uneasy calm, which continued into the next decade as my work took me from city to city…leaving Delhi, the place of my birth, for Mumbai, then on to Bangalore, and last year to Singapore. All of this was terribly upsetting for my mother, torn as she was between the father and son. For my wife, this was equally distressing as she tried to come to terms with such strong emotions, the very causes of which were unclear to her. One thing did grow though…and that was the respect my father developed for my professional endeavours. Through all of our arguments and conflicts, he remained proud of the effort and progress he felt I was making.

Morbid as it may sound, I think his illness was again a turning point in our relationship as he underwent two successive strokes within the span of a week, which had a sudden and significant impact on his brain. His memory and comprehension were badly affected. A learned professor of modern European history who had taught in an institution of international repute for nearly three decades now could not even recall the date of birth of his only child. Or read the newspaper and understand the state of affairs around him. Gone also were the obstinacy, the fiery temper and sharp tongue. In the short span of a few days, his entire persona had undergone a transformation… However we are fortunate that physically he has remained relatively unaffected, being able to walk about and take care of his needs without aid from others. It could indeed have been a lot worse. Today he is much more placid and compliant. The dynamics in our house have changed. For years he was the dominant force, and my mother the one in compliance. This has now reversed and she has taken charge. She has learnt to use the mobile, get the groceries, manage the household and finances, all the while taking him for his medical check ups and overseeing his medication and wellbeing. My mother even took a computer course so she could be in touch with me over Skype and email. The strong willed woman, who once gave up her career to rear her child, has emerged from the shadows and started afresh…after a 35 year hiatus and when she is well into her 70s!

I feel that my father and I now share a different equation, entirely devoid of the strife we had experienced over the years. My conversations with him are much like the one’s he may have had with me when I was a child. I check in on his daily routine and the progress he is making on the ‘tasks’ I have assigned him…has he been reading? How many pages written in the last few days? I test his memory with some facts and questions. He sounds upbeat and eager to talk…but then has nothing to say after a couple of sentences. Often, the same questions are repeated. When will I be visiting? How is work? Where did I travel? Are we doing all right? Earlier this year, after much persuasion, they visited us in Singapore for a couple of months…a much needed change of scenery and an opportunity to recuperate in a different environment. It did make some difference. But the progress is really slow and I wonder to what extent a recovery will take place. I don’t expect that it will be the way it was before. Nothing ever is, is it?